These are not the same size of amplifier: NAD C 399 has roughly 2.3x the power of NAD C 379 BluOS-D. That is about 3.5dB, so it is a question of room size and how hard your speakers are to drive, not of one being the better amplifier.
| Area | Better | Why |
|---|
| Power | B | NAD C 399 has more power - 180W against 80W into 8 ohms. That is about 3.5dB, so it plays usefully louder before it runs out and has more in hand on peaks. |
| Grip on hard loads | evenly matched | Both behave much the same into 4 ohms - output barely increases (80W and 180W). |
| Noise floor | evenly matched | Much the same signal-to-noise ratio (95dB vs 95dB). |
| Built-in DAC | A | Both decode on board, but only NAD C 379 BluOS-D handles MQA. |
| Streaming | A | Only NAD C 379 BluOS-D has AirPlay 2, Roon and BluOS. |
| Room to grow | evenly matched | The same expansion options on both. |
| Price | A | NAD C 379 BluOS-D costs less - $1,499 against $1,999 at list. |
| Watts per dollar | B | NAD C 399 is the cheaper watt - about $11 per watt against $19. A blunt measure, and it says nothing about how either sounds, but it is the honest one for raw output. |
A NAD C 379 BluOS-D B NAD C 399
depends neither is better in the abstract - it turns on your room, your system or how you will use them. Only specs published for both amplifiers are judged; anything missing on either side is left out rather than guessed.
Which should you choose?
Neither runs away with it - they trade advantages. Let the "depends" rows and the speakers you already own settle it. Start with the room. In a large or open-plan room, or with speakers that are hard to drive - low sensitivity, or an impedance that dips - NAD C 399 has the headroom, and headroom is what stops an amplifier hardening up on peaks. At desk distance or in a small room, 80 watts is already more than most people ever use, and the extra 100 watts would be headroom you pay for and never hear - we rate NAD C 399 poorly for near-field use for exactly that reason. Think about the whole system: the roughly $500 saved by taking the cheaper one would buy better speakers or a subwoofer, which does more for the sound than the difference between two competent amplifiers.
What a spec sheet cannot show: how either sounds with your speakers, how the controls feel day to day, and what the app is like to live with - which is where most all-in-one amplifiers are actually won or lost. Power figures are the manufacturers' own and are not measured to a common standard, so treat small differences as noise. If you can hear both, that will tell you more than any row above.